MKURU, PARE MOUNTAINS (north) AND PARE MOUNTAINS (south).
Mkuru is situated on the North side of Mount Meru, not far away from the irrigated fields of Ngarenanyuki and the Momela gate of Arusha National Park. From a distance the area can be easily recognized through the remarkable shape of Ol Doinyo Landaree, the little mountain that looks like a pyramid. Maasai families live in small traditional bomas scattered throughout the area. In the early morning, the warriors start wandering with their cattle looking for pasture and water. Young children take care of the goat and sheep, and sometimes assist their mothers in fetching water and collecting firewood. With assistance from Heifer Project International some Maasai have also started keeping camels, and come to understand the benefits of this animal.
On behalf of the requests from Maasai societies Heifer Project International is providing camels to individuals and groups. Since the introduction of camels in Tanzania in the early nineties, Mkuru has become one of the centers for camel promotion in the country. Over a hundred camels stay in the camel camp, from where they are lead every day into the plains to search for forage. At the end of the afternoon, all camels return to the camp and are milked by Maasai warriors. The camels are seen as a perfect animal for the semi arid plains between Mount Kilimanjaro and Lake Natron. Since they eat from the trees, they hardly compete with the livestock and they can stand the droughts much better than the Maasai cattle. If necessary, camels can stay up to fifteen days without drinking, so they are capable of making long trips.
The area around Mkuru is alive with colourful birds. The rufous crowned roller, the red and yellow barbet and the Fischer's lovebird are some of the more special species. Small game also regularly passes the area and in the plains to the north, giraffes and zebras are common animals.
Different tours: A visit to Mkuru can be designed in various ways, varying from an overnight at the camel camp to a camel safari of several days.
The camel camp experience: At the end of the afternoon you arrive at the camel camp, where you can see the camel herds returning from the plains and walk in between these animals that are very friendly to men. Often there are young camels, just born, that cannot yet walk and have to be carried by Maasai warriors to a place in the shade of a tree. At night, near the campfire, you can listen to sounds of the plains and watch the thousands of stars at the sky. In the morning you will see the Maasai milking the camels and you can enjoy the taste of a cup of fresh camel milk. The camel ride From the camel camp you can undertake a camel ride of several hours through the plains around Mkuru. On the back of the camel and guided by Maasai warriors, you can perfectly oversee the area and have good chances to view game and special birds. With Kilimanjaro and Longido Mountain at the horizon, and Mount Meru rising up right behind you, the landscape you are wandering through is of an amazing magnitude.
Camel safaris: In co-operation with tour operators, arrangements can be made for camel safaris of more days. Starting from the camp in Mkuru, safaris are possible in the direction of Kilimanjaro, Longido Mountain and Lake Natron. In two days, a tour can be made in the direction of Mount Kilimanjaro, passing the wildlife corridor between Amboseli National Park and Tarangire and Arusha National Park. In three days a safari can be made to Longido mountain, while four days is sufficient to reach the mountain of Kitumbeine. Four the most adventurous ones, a seven days safari can be organized via the mountains of Kitumbeine and Ol Doinyo Lengai to the shores of Lake Natron. During the camel safaris you usually cover around 20 kilometres before lunch. In the afternoon you can always relax and explore the area around the camp.
Bird walks: Guided by Maasai warriors you can walk through the acacia woodland around the camel camp in Mkuru. With their sharp eyes, the warriors notice every movement and will show you many special birds, which live in this semi arid area. If you are lucky, you can also see some game running away. It is advised that you bring a pair of binoculars if interested in this option.
Climb of Ol Doinyo Landaree: For a more strenuous tour without the camels, you can climb Ol Doinyo Landaree, the mountain with the shape of a pyramid. Escorted by Maasai warriors it will take you about two hours to reach the top, from where you have a beautiful view on Mount Meru and can look out over the Maasai plain between Meru and Kilimanjaro. In about one and a half hour you can descend the mountain and relax at the camels camp. Combinations of the various tours are very well possible.
Around Meru Adventure Safari: A camel safari in Mkuru can also well be combined with a visit to Arusha National Park. In two and a half day an adventurous tour can be made around Mount Meru. The first day you leave Arusha at noon and make an afternoon Game drive in Arusha National Park around the Momela Lakes. You spend the night at Momela Lodge and make the next morning a walking safari through the natural forests on the slopes of Mount Meru. In the afternoon you proceed to the Mkuru camel camp, where you make the camel ride the next day before you return late afternoon via the west side of Mount Meru to Arusha.
GUIDES: The guides are mainly young Maasai who grew up in the plains around Mount Meru, and are all well experienced in organizing camel safaris. They speak only limited English, but can explain a lot with hand signs. Especially on longer safaris it is advisable to go with an extra guide who can translate Swahili into English.
FACILITIES: In the camp there are three luxury cottages, that each provide room for two persons. The cottages share one outside toilet, from where you have an excellent view on Kilimanjaro. Camping equipment, including bush showers, is available for large groups. Except from tea of coffee with camel milk, there are no food and drinks for sale in the camp. On requests we can make use of the kitchen with energy saving stoves to prepare meals for our clients.
DEVELOPMENT PROJECTS: A kindergarten for the Maasai In the village of Mkuru there is no single primary school. Therefore, children who want to get education have to walk long distances every day to neighboring villages. Especially for the younger children this distance is simply too far. In order to give also some education to their younger children, the Maasai have now started their own kindergarten in Mkuru. A part of the income generated from tourism will be used to support this kindergarten.
NORTHERN PARE MOUNTAINS
The Northern Pare Mountains are situated 50 km south-east of Moshi, almost in the shade of Mount Kilimanjaro. The mountains can be entered via the town of Mwanga, the district capital where huge palm trees grow abundantly in the water that streams downhill. From Mwanga a good sand road winds upwards to Usangi, the center of the Northern Pare Mountains. Surrounded by eleven peaks, the little town is a center of economic activities. Small local factories produce bricks, stoves, pottery and clothes. In their backyards, some families have local breweries, using traditional brewing methods inherited from their grandfathers.
Every Monday and Thursday, there is a colorful market, where farmers from the surrounding villages come to sell their harvest. The mountains are among the most fertile in East Africa, and villagers do there utmost to use every square meter of cultivatable land. Hand-made dikes have drained swampy areas, terrace-building has enabled cultivation on steep slopes and traditional irrigation systems bring water to many farms. On top of the mountains are protected natural forests and moor lands, that often have the status of traditional clan-forest in the Pare culture. In these forests, ceremonies take place and witchdoctors perform their magic powers. From the mountain tops you have wide views over the surrounding plains, seeing the extensive Kisangara sisal estate, the long-drawn lakes of Jipe and Nyumba ya Mungu ("House of God") and at the horizon the Taita and Kiteto hills. Mount Kilimanjaro is a stone's throw from the area and at many places the impressive mountain is revealed for your eyes.
Usangi Mangatu view tour: Through farms on the lower part of the slopes you gradually climb to the Mangatu moor land. On top you reach the Mbale clan-forest, from where you have excellent views of Mount Kilimanjaro and Lake Jipe. Goma caves tour via the farms around Usangi, you reach Goma hill, where a century ago the Pare chiefs dug deep caves to hide themselves against rival tribes and later the Colonial ruler. In a nearby hut the villagers still keep some 40 skulls of Pare chiefs who were killed in tribal and colonial wars.
Usangi Kindoroko forest tour: Via the Goma caves you gradually climb to the forest reserve on Kindoroko mountain. Kindoroko has the shape of a table mountain and once on top you can easily walk through the natural forest, while trying to spot monkeys and special birds. On the other side of the forest you will see stone terraces and irrigation systems in the village of Kisangara juu, before returning to Usangi via a route through the moor land.
Shigatini village tour: Via a natural forest you walk to the village of Shigatini. Here farmers will proudly show you the irrigation systems, soil conservation methods used and tree nurseries they have set up. Old churches and graves of the first missionaries can be visited as reminders of the early German influence.
Kamwala mountain climb: First we pass the Chegho moor land, where Mzee Keiya, an old farmer can tell you some fascinating stories about the miracles that took place here in the past. From here it is a steep climb through a natural forest to the top of Kamwala mountain. On your way up and down you alternately have good views to the plains North and South of the Pare Mountains.
Northern Pare Hikes: On request, walking tours of several days can be organized, where you can walk long distances through natural forests, descend the mountains and spend a night with a local family in the village of Kisangara chini or visit the further northern spurs of the mountains near the village of Ugweno.
Northern Pare car-round trip: Via Mwanga you enter the mountains and first go to the Northern spurs, where you stop at the Wara storage lake. From here you turn southwards to Shigatini and Usangi. On your way you have perfect views, visit some progressive farmers and local factories and see several relics from the time of tribal wars and colonial rule. The tour can easily be done as a day-trip from Moshi or Marangu.
GUIDES: Our guides all come from the region and speak reasonable English. Most of them are working as farmer or craftsman in the mountains. When there are tourists, the guides can easily find spare time to show the tourists the beauty of the area.
FACILITIES: In Usangi, there are several local families that can offer a room to tourists. Most of these families stay at the compound of the Lomwe secondary school, where often one of the family members works as a teacher. The rest house of the school also offers three rooms for visitors. In Kisangara chini, tourists can spend the night at the Enimasha house of the Banduka family. Food can be provided at all of these places and is of good quality and prepared hygienically. In the mountains there are also areas that are suitable for camping.
DEVELOPMENTAL PROJECTS: German (GTZ), Dutch (SNV) and local (Enimasha) development organizations have initiated several development projects in the area. The organizations work closely together and try to assist farmers in increasing their agricultural production, while preserving the natural environment. The improved traditional irrigation systems, the soil conservation terraces on the steep slopes and the vast number of tree nurseries in the area are the most visible results.
Recently, development organizations have also started to promote energy saving stoves, that use three times less firewood and therefore help to preserve the natural forests and reduce the workload of women. The profit from the tourism programme will be used for the promotion of these stoves. When you are in the mountains, feel free to visit the various development projects. The Pare farmers will proudly show you the results and provide you with interesting background information.
SOUTHERN PARE MOUNTAINS
The southern Pare Mountains are situated in Kilimanjaro Region, about 150 kilometers south of Moshi. From the surrounding plains, the mountains look like a barren and deserted area, but when you start climbing the slopes, one of Africa's most special landscapes is revealed for your eyes. Between huge desolate rocks lie small green river valleys where farmers have built impressive stone terraces. On top of the mountains is the Chome forest reserve, a dense tropical forest with many rare trees and plants. The forest offers an oasis of rest, beauty and fresh air.
Visitors can easily walk a day through the forest without meeting anyone. The surrounding villages are among the most isolated places in Northern Tanzania and the local people have kept their traditional Pare culture throughout history. Narrow footpaths wind through the mountains from one village to another. A stay in the Southern Pare Mountains can perfectly be combined with a visit to the neighboring Mkomazi Game Reserve, where game drives and walking safaris are possible.
You can chose different modules that vary from 2 to 5 days. In the two day visit you first climb up the Pare Mountains to Mhero village, where some farms and development projects can be visited. The next day you walk through the Chome Forest reserve from Mhero to Gonjanza.
The three day module adds a day walking from Gonjanza to Mpinji, partly through the natural forest and partly through the cultivated southern slopes of the mountains, from where you have a beautiful view on the Usambara mountains. On the way you can see the old river forest along the Saseni river.
The four day module includes a climb to Shengena peak. Strong legs and good shoes are required. The five day module adds a walking tour from Mpinji to Bombo, from where you will descend the Pare Mountains through the Gonja Forest reserve. On the horizon you will see the extensive plains of Mkomazi Game reserve.
GUIDES: Our guides were all born in the Pare mountains and are very familiar with the area. They speak good English and can tell interesting stories about history, culture and daily life in the Southern Pare Mountains. They also are well informed about the several development projects in our villages and have a lot of knowledge of the different trees and plants in the natural forest.
FACILITIES: In the natural forest there are several lawns close to rivers that are perfectly fit for free camping. The water is very clean and can be used for washing, cooking and drinking. Modest accommodation can be provided in the villages.
DEVELOPMENTAL PROJECT: During the past years the Netherlands Development Organization has in close cooperation with the Pare farmers established a Traditional Irrigation Improvement Programme (TIP) in the mountains. The various forest reserves in the Pare mountains are of main importance for the irrigation programme. If the forests will not be well preserved, the sustainability of the irrigation systems can come under threat of diminishing water supplies and massive soil erosion. Deforestation will expose the land to wind and water, causing heavy erosion, faster surface run-off and less infiltration of water.
Through afforestation and terracing farmers now try to protect their water and land resources. Some villagers however still cut trees in the forests, for which they hardly can be blamed, since they are struggling for sufficient food, fuel wood and income. Tourism can offer an alternative and more sustainable way of using the forest and may encourage all farmers to further conservation measures. |